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Frequently-Asked Questions
Created: 2020jun23tue
Updated: 2023jun29thu
Not all advice given here below, might be applicable to any hiker's specific situation on any particular hike. The hiker should decide for themselves.
EXERTION & DANGER
1. How Difficult is it? Will I make it?
Firstly, it is recommended that, on the "Trails" homepage of this site, in the trails list, (1) any trails that might have been hiked already, should be looked up, (2) their statistics should be compared to those of the unfamiliar trail in the list that might be proposed to be hiked next, (3) their write-ups should be read, (4) their videos should be watched, and then (5) it should be decided -- by the hiker themselves -- whether to give it a try, or not.
However, a video can't really do it justice, because, at most, it merely offers an opportunity to spectate, and not actually to participate.
Secondly, https://tinyurl.com/y7gdhk6h shows an extensive, alphabetical, graded list of the Berg-en-Dal Hiking Club's hiking trails. The grades refer to distance/elevation/technicality, in that order - NOT in the order as explained at the bottom of that page. Sadly, the list is not sortable, but a Ctrl+F or similar search for a particular trail name, grade or region might be helpful.
A similar approach to that suggested for the information on the "Trails" page, might also be followed for the Berg-en-Dal information. A comparison might even be made of the Berg-en-Dal information with that on the "Trails" page, in an attempt to determine the possible relationship between the two. Then trails that do not appear on the "Trails" page, might be evaluated comparatively from the Berg-en-Dal information.
In considering upgrading to a more strenuous or dangerous Berg-en-Dal route, it is suggested that increasing distance should perhaps be done first (AAA -> BAA). Then the distance should be reduced again, and the elevation increased (BAA -> ABA). Then the elevation should be reduced, and the technicality increased (ABA -> AAB). Then distance should be increased (AAB -> BAB), and then elevation (BAB -> BBB). The same pattern should be followed from BBB to CCC, etc. However, this is only an ideal, theoretical suggestion. Practically, it might not be possible to find accessible routes that facilitate such a progression exactly.
https://georgetrails.org.za/ also has some comparable trail info.
Do your homework. Study the research that has already been done for you. This site exists in an attempt to make this process easier for you. It is known as "preparation": preparation for each trail individually, as well as for hiking in general. Hiking is like walking... no, seriously: you first gotta learn how to roll over, then sit up, crawl, and stand, before you can begin to learn how to walk, or hike for that matter.
Moreover, it's all subjective. At the time of this writing, Berg-en-Dal grade the Glentana Wreck hike (excluding the Caves) as AAA, whereas I would definitely, without even the slightest doubt, grade it as AAB, according to their own grading system, having done it pretty much on a monthly basis for a good couple of years now already. However, I have taken some people on the Wreck hike whom I'm pretty sure would not give it any grade lower than an AAC, according to their own personal assessment.
One hiker's enjoyable, is another hiker's nightmare. Nobody can expect anyone else to know whether they will be able to enjoy - or merely even just complete - a route, or not.
Thirdly, if there are still questions after having watched the videos, and/or having considered Berg-en-Dal's route grades, a hiker may tell me which trails they've done already, and if I know, I'll tell them how I think the unknown compares to their known - as I see it from my subjective and variable perspective.
Just be aware: I forget the details of a hike. I remember only the general experience. Also, every repetition of a hike is different from any previous hike on that trail. The weather, the group, my own fitness, mental and emotional states at the time... they all change from hike to hike. I can only tell another hiker how it was for me, and then only relative to any other hikes I have done previously. I have no idea what it could possibly be like for anybody else. "Even in our greatest moments: birth, death, and anything else in between, we are all actually always still alone."
Lastly, an inexperienced hiker should start out easy and slowly, with the goal of beginning to learn to know where their present limits lie. Physical abilities should rather be underestimated, at least initially. Then the hiker can gradually build it up from there, testing and feeling where the boundaries are at any particular moment.
Only when they think they know where the limits are, can they begin the push to expand them -- from the inside. Underestimating the requirements of the trail, and overestimating their own abilities, and those of their fellow hikers, stepping outside of the boundaries too soon, too quickly, will probably only lead to embarrassment at least, and could get the others into some really serious trouble due to poor judgment.
It is at least as much in the head as it is in the legs -- and the more so, the tougher the hiking. Therefore, an inexperienced hiker should also learn to know the present limits of their mental perseverance, emotional maturity and depth of character, the limits of their empathy for, and their patience with their fellow hikers, whether they run ahead or lag behind -- but also, and even more so, their patience with their own rate of progress. If there are any limits that should be attempted to be exceeded, these are them.
A good, local test, here in the George region, Western Cape, South Africa, to determine whether a hiker is "fit enough", is to try to climb the mountain up to the cross. Ask around; pretty much everybody knows about it. On the George Peak Circle Anticlockwise page, the video at the bottom shows the shortest route from Arbour Rd. to the cross, and, in the list of waypoints, the cross is indicated as being 2.0km from the Arbour Rd. forest gate. The signpost at the cross itself indicates 2.2km. This trail has an elevation gain of a little more than 300m, according to the small signposts along the way. If a hiker can make it to the cross in an hour, or an hour and a half at most, and back to Arbour Rd. in another hour, then they might be fit enough for any day-hike recorded on this site. If you want to become hiking fit, keep on climbing that route until you can make it in time. However, this is work, not relaxation and fun. Decide for yourself what you want to do, and how you want to do it, and then take the responsibility to deal with the consequences yourself.
Keeping a hiking logbook/diary/journal might be helpful in this regard. Consistently record any or all of the following data, in any logical/practical order, for the purposes of later comparison.
Objective Constants:
date, time, trail name; maximum altitude (m), total distance (km), total ascent (m); maximum elevation and depression angles (deg) and respective, specific slope-lengths (m)
Objective Variables:
group size, age groups (toddlers, children, teens, tweens, adults, elders), group members' names/contact details; weather conditions: temperature, wind speed, cloud cover, general conditions/changes; total time (h), hiking time (h), resting time (h); average speed (km/h) = total distance / total time, hiking speed (km/h) = total distance / hiking time
Subjective Constants:
estimated exertion and danger ratings; Berg-en-Dal grading; qualitative danger from 0 to 5; terrain description
Subjective Variables:
general notes (What did I see/experience/learn today?): places of interest, environment, wildlife, plants, animals, birds, bugs, spoor, food/gear/technique ideas, people, friends, family, mind, heart, life, etc. Thoughts/feelings observed, something to be grateful for (previously during the day), affirmation (now), what would be great (for next time)
First aid:
last medication/water/food taken/not taken (when?), events leading up to incident, allergies; time (every 10-15min), consciousness/response, heart & breath rate (rhythm & quality), temperature (warm/cold/normal); general observations
However, when the hiker eventually realises within themselves that they know how to expand their limits patiently, gently, kindly, safely, from the inside, then they will become aware of being capable of actually paying the price, which they would then also have come to know will require so much more than they had previously thought. If they are prepared and determined to dig deep enough, they will be pleasantly surprised at finally meeting their own beautiful, strong and wise inner-self.
Like hiking, the enjoyment of this discovery process is not so much in the perceived destination as it is in our destiny to walk this path with all its ups and downs, highs and lows, constricting obstacles and beautifully wide, open spaces and panoramic views, and meeting all the other frustrating and friendly people along the way, each of us on our own little journey.
Hiking is as much about exploring the external environment as it is about discovering the inner world of how we continually, ever-increasingly become who we have been created to be ever since always...
2. How long before High Tide?
The first part of this video demonstrates and explains how I determine the best time to do the Glentana Wreck & Caves Beach-Cleanup hike. The information should be more or less applicable to other beach hikes as well. I am not responsible for the information on the Ocean Rhythm satides.co.za site.
3. How about the Wind?
Beaufort# Wind Speed Conditions
(km/h) | (m/s)
0-3 <20 | <5.5 Pleasant
4 20 - 30 | 5.5 - 8 Hikeable
5-12 30+ | 8+ Dangerous
On the Beaufort Wind-Force Scale, it seems that any air-movement of Beaufort-number 0 to 3, i.e. up to and including a "gentle breeze" of about ~20km/h (~5.5m/s) at most, in my subjective opinion, still offers a reasonably comfortable hike for most hikers. On land, leaves and small twigs are in constant motion, and light flags are extended. On sea, there are large wavelets, crests begin to break, foam has a glassy appearance (what does this even mean?!), and there are perhaps scattered white horses. Conversation is still relatively easy and natural.
A wind of Beaufort-number 4, i.e. a "moderate breeze" of about ~20-30km/h (~5.5-8m/s), is still hikeable, but with some unpleasantness and discomfort. On land, dust and loose paper are lifted, and branches move. On sea, small waves become longer, and there are fairly frequent white horses. Conversation becomes more difficult, and some shouting might be required.
A wind of Beaufort-number 5 or greater, i.e. from a "fresh breeze" of about ~30km/h (~8m/s) or stronger, generally seems to be too uncomfortable for many hikers. On land, small trees in leaf begin to sway, and crested wavelets form on inland waters. On sea, moderate waves take a more pronounced, long form, many white horses are formed, and there is a chance of some spray. Conversation becomes frustrating, and communication is reduced to shouting only.
I do not take hikers out on the Glentana hike in winds stronger than 30km/h. It is too dangerous. People can be blown off balance, fall from the cliffs, and injure themselves.
However, I would be willing to take along a small group of maximum two other hikers to climb a mountain in strong wind. It is a much more challenging climb than usual. They should come with the mindset to climb, and not be frustrated by not being able to hear what anyone else is saying, nor to mind their conversation being blown away in the wind. It will not only be a scream in the face of the elements, but also a conquering of the self on a new level. John Koenig's "Dictionary of Obscure Sorrows" defines a possibly associated emotion as "lachesism".
EQUIPMENT
4. Shoes or Boots?
Shoes Boots
Support: No Yes
Cooler: Yes No
Lighter: Yes No
Cheaper: Yes No
Healthier: Yes No
There are situations in which rigid boots are a required essential, such as hiking/climbing snow and ice with crampons. It should be determined how often ice/snow hiking will be done, and whether that alone might justify buying boots, or not.
If a hiker doesn't know whether they need the support, they haven't hiked enough yet. They should follow the advice from question #1 here above: start easy, build it up gradually, and keep logs. Somewhere along the way they'll just know whether they need to get boots, or not. Many hikers, doing the hikes on this site, think they do, but actually don't.
It is actually just exactly all that artificial support from boots that make our feet and ankles weak, causing us to need the artificial support. It's an auto-feedback loop. The way out, is to take the time to do some natural, body-weight, strengthening exercises.
Generally, hiking is more pleasant with cooler feet. However, winter hiking might require two pairs of socks, one of which can be removed if things get too hot.
Personally, I require a shoe that can go through water without getting waterlogged. However, "waterproof" also often means "sweatproof", and that's not always a good thing. If it's waterproof from the outside, chances are it's also waterproof - and hot - from the inside. In my experience, the term "breathable" used as a selling point for technical hiking gear, has so far always been completely inapplicable, and is, at best, merely only slightly relative.
At this stage, I think my ideal footwear would be a black, multi-purpose, all-terrain, wide toe-box, zero-drop/flat-sole, non-barefoot, sandal-type, mesh-closed hiking-shoe with spiky grip and wide toe protection, and which lets the water run out freely again. (Trail-running shoes have only narrow toe protection, in an attempt to be lighter, faster, more competitive.)
Whichever footwear is eventually chosen, having assured sufficient comfort, it is ultimately about the grip. From what I've seen, spiky grip works the best. Something like this. That is what I plan on experimenting with for myself next. Whether spiky or not, it is mostly about the grip.
Initially new footwear will probably be somewhat snug. As they become worn in, the snugness will ease up. However, a hiker should determine the maximum size in which their toes still touch the front inside the footwear, and then choose one size bigger. ... Why do I even have to tell you this? Surely you remember how it was when you went to fit new school-shoes when you were still a kid! It might be interesting to try even one size bigger still. However, if it's too big, chafing can become a problem in footwear that don't fit snug enough.
Also, rather actually fit the footwear on your feet, than simply packing the size into a till bag according to any other shoes under the bed, or in the closet, and walking out the store, only to return them later because you misjudged the fit. Different manufacturers from different countries have slightly different interpretations of footwear sizes, and one brand's size 9 might be another brand's size 8.
Of all of a hiker's gear, footwear is the most important (unless they're a true barefoot hiker, which is a rare and interesting hiker-breed, indeed). It's an investment which shouldn't be skimped on. "A bad bargain is dear at a farthing." / "Goedkoop is duurkoop."
...And lastly: on anything longer or more strenuous than an afternoon stroll, "worn in, but not worn out" is generally good advice. Otherwise, a hiker could end up having to deal with blisters as well.
Oh! ...And don't forget to cut your toe nails, or you might lose a nail due to toe pressure on the downhills.
P.S. I have been advised to wash my shoes as soon as possible if they get wet in the sea, and not to dry them too quickly in the sun and/or a draught/breeze/in front of a fan/fire; the salt corrodes the material, and the stitching and gluing might tear loose.
P.P.S. Ankle/leg gaiters might also help to keep sticks and pebbles and other niggly, little bits of nothing out of shoes/boots, especially if the hiker goes off the beaten track. Gaiters are useful in allowing a hiker to keep going when, otherwise, they would've had to undo their laces, and remove their shoes in the middle of a hike.
On the other hand again, should it become necessary to remove shoes/boots quickly, for whatever reason, gaiters can get in the way, and slow the process.
Thicker gaiters can, furthermore, also be hot inside. On the other hand, thicker gaiters can reduce the effectiveness of a snake bite. Then again, chances of tangling with a snake on a Garden Route hike are almost zero.
Gaiters are usually merely a nice-to-have luxury, not a required-to-survive necessity. I myself have three pairs of thick leg-gaiters. They're nice, especially in winter. I like them. I won't buy any new gaiters again, though, when these ones wear out.
5. To Stick, or not to Stick?
I used to stick. Now, I rather umbrella, and not a small one either. I might also still stick, though, because, sometimes, you need to whack some branches out of the way when the path is overgrown, and an umbrella probably won't survive such rough treatment.
(a) Rain protection. (b) Sun protection. (c) Walking stick/support. (d) Personal-defense weapon. (e) Signalling device, especially if it's a bright brolly. (f) Cobweb & spider clearance-device. (g) Anti-paparazzi screen.
On the other hand, both stick and umbrella do get in the way sometimes. Draw up your own balance sheet of pros vs. cons.
For the stick, I got half a broomstick at the hardware store, wrapped it in insulation tape (because it does tend to splinter otherwise), covered each end with a rubber ferrule, and attached a thin rope at one end through which I can easily and comfortably slip my wrist from the top, down. It might have cost me 50ZAR in total, I don't know how many years ago now already, and it's still good. I've only had to replace a ferrule once, and re-wrap some small bits of insulation tape here and there. A single, tungsten-carbide trekking-pole tip, alone, on eBay, costs anywhere from two to three times what I paid for my entire stick!
Ultra-light, spring-loaded, telescopic, carbide-tipped, tungsten-alloy, carbon-fibre, kevlar-reinforced, bullet-proof, see-through, anti-gravity, intergalactic, trans-dimensional trekking poles have too many expensive, breakable, unfixable, throw-away, moving parts for my liking. They should only really be necessary-to-survive if a professional health-care specialist-practitioner, or lawyer, prescribed/advised it; otherwise, it's just a waste.
Moses, of Exodus fame, probably used a crooked shepherd's staff for forty years watching his father-in-law Jethro's sheep, and forty years after that guiding the Israelites through the desert. It is possible to find a relatively useful stick somewhere in the bush along the way, if absolutely necessary.
They say snakes can only count in 2s. (How they figured that, only they would know, whoever "they" might even be anyway.) Allegedly, feeling the vibrations of a "third leg" approaching, scares the snakes, and then they jump up and run away. So, there's that.
Also, these days, a slightly bulkier stick can serve as a deterrent against mugging, and can be used for personal defense in an attack, should the need arise. However, the hiker should learn how to use it properly, for their own sake. I recommend Krav Maga personal defense in general, in South Africa, and in George. Beware of imitators.
</engage rant mode>
Like boots, trekking poles cause hikers to become reliant on artificial support, when they should actually just merely have got off the office chair and lounge couch, and should have been doing their strengthening exercises all along, in the first place.
...But we're lazy! ...And to add impatience and undisciplined inconsistency to laziness, on top of our laziness, we're not only lazy, but impatient also, with an inconsistent lack of discipline!! We don't want to work for it, but we want it yesterday. So, we would rather throw some money at the problem, than try to solve the cause of it. ...And if we don't have the money, because we've been throwing it around elsewhere, feeding other problems which could have been solved a long time ago already much more efficiently and effectively, then we complain about how poor we are! ...
It makes me ashamed to be classified as a Human, because this, my dear friends, is the epitome of entitlement. I know all of this to be true, because I speak from personal experience. I wouldn't have known how to call you out on it, if I didn't struggle similarly against such vices myself -- such as projecting my weaknesses onto others. ... -- like I'm doing here, now.
Furthermore, as the terrain changes, pole tips need to be covered with rubber feet/paws, and uncovered again. ...and covered, and uncovered, again. ...and again. Mud/snow baskets also need to be attached, because Physics.
That tiny, little tungsten-carbide tip is like the tip of a pin, like a needle point. The smaller the contact area, the greater the pressure from even a relatively small downward force, actually causing the trekking pole to penetrate many different kinds of surfaces, even with a snow basket, producing resistance against motion in stead of merely pressing on top of it for optimal movement. Also, have you seen how easily that tip can puncture and damage bags and other gear? ... "Keep covered when not in use."
This is just exactly why inexperienced hikers instinctively don't want to remove the rubber cover from the tip, because the rubber cover provides a larger, if perhaps flimsy, contact area -- which they know won't penetrate as deeply into the ground!
Then, with the pole stuck in the mud or sand or snow or whatever, the repeated lever-action during the forward walking-motion wears against the trekking pole's spring-loaded telescopic joints...
Also, extending the poles so that your hands rise above your heart during any part of a stride... requires your heart to work so much harder to pump the blood uphill to your hands.
Oh, for crying in a bucket! Figure it out for yourself already, will ya! It's a gimmick. It's a SCAM!! It's a money-making racket! ... I'm done!
OK. So what must we do? Strengthening exercises, that's what we must do. ...And if that's not enough to maintain your balance, then pick up a stick in the bush. Rather, in stead of using the stick to carry you, you should carry the stick, like you carry your own weight, and use the stick only to maintain balance when necessary. ...And the sooner you start doing it, the sooner you'll be able to do it. Now you know what to do... What are you going to do? Go! Do it! Start on the "Training" page.
(How deep is your need for this really? How hungry are you actually for it? Is this really your ikigai? ...or is it just something you can use to procrastinate some more, and prevent yourself from discovering your true ikigai(s)?... )
</disengage rant mode>
6. Gloves?
This is a relatively new thing, in my experience. I started wearing cycling gloves because my stick gave me a blister between my thumb and forefinger. Some people saw my gloves on the Glentana hike, and then they also started wearing gloves, but rather because they found the rock scrambling to be a bit tough on their hands.
Full-finger gloves are hot, and don't always allow the fine feeling needed for quickly and easily undoing a zip, or retying a lace, or opening a packet of peanuts.
Cycling gloves are fine... -ish... but I've since come to prefer thicker gym/weight-lifting gloves. Yes, once again, they are somewhat warmer, but "rather have and not want, than want and not have when you really need" the thicker, tougher protection to break a fall.
Chances of repeated falls on the same uneven hiking-terrain seem to be significantly greater than even on an MTB downhill track. Generally, I would expect a biker who falls badly on a downhill track, to want to go home afterwards. A hiker who falls badly on a hiking trail, will probably also want to go home afterwards, but might still have to keep on hiking, at least on the way back, and run the increased risk of another fall again, on their way home as well. Then, damaged gloves from the first fall will probably not help as much on the second fall anymore. So, thin, summer-style cycling gloves might not be the best idea for hiking in general.
On a mid-winter hike, though, going up the mountain to play in the snow, I definitely recommend thick, full-finger skiing gloves -- with inners. (When it's cold, but not icy cold, I just wear the gym gloves over the skiing-glove inners.)
7. Gear?
"Rather have and not want, than want and not have when you need it." That is generally speaking, though. ...But: "Will I ever truly need it, is it a need-to-survive necessity; or do I merely want it, is it a nice-to-have luxury?" ...And: "Everything you bring, you carry yourself." ... Yes, it's a very fine balance.
Most of us are not professional, brand-sponsored hikers/backpackers/campers. We don't need a separate backpack and sleeping bag for each of the seven seasons, as required by our advertising contracts.
Most casual hikers are happy with a small 20 to 35-litre day-pack. I, personally, would prefer a 50-litre day-pack, but it's a nice-to-have, and I will just have to make do with my present 30-litre until I can't anymore.
Multi-day/winter hikes require bigger packs. 80 litres is a BIG pack, and would probably be sufficient for backpacking around the world. They don't really get much bigger than that.
REI Co-op recommends that a loaded backpack for a day-hike should not weigh more than 10% of the hiker's body weight; and a loaded backpack for a multi-day hike should not weigh more than 20% of the hiker's body weight. Growing children should never carry more than 10% of their body weight in a loaded backpack. Heavy bags can stunt a child's growth, and cause pain and permanent spinal-damage.
Rather have one bigger pack with more space, and simply pull in the straps as necessary to reduce the size of the unused bulk, especially for a growing child. Analogously, it is generally known how expensive school shoes can be. Besides, bigger pack frames are not that much heavier than smaller ones. On the other hand, a small child should perhaps not try to wear an 80l pack either. If the school shoes are too big... fill in the blanks.
Rather have one warmer sleeping bag, and simply throw it open when it gets too hot. Warmer sleeping bags are heavier and more bulky, though, requiring a bigger backpack. A microfiber sleeping-bag liner reduces wear-and-tear on the sleeping bag by becoming the substitute washable.
A hiker should perhaps rather actually just go on a hike, and ask the other hikers to demonstrate their gear. Most hikers love bragging about their gear. Then it can be seen how the gear is used practically in the field, and the hiker can make a better informed decision than possibly just having to take the salesperson's word for it, or reading some vague reviews on the internet as to whether they'll actually ever really need it, or whether it's just another nice-to-have, useless money-making gimmick.
8. CamelBak Hydration Pack/Bladder?
Great for the more serious trail-runner/cyclist. Lightweight, streamlined, minimalist packing... Fantastic! GO!
However... I've had trouble keeping the bladder, tube and mouthpiece clean and free from fungi. I suggest using 20 Vol/6% hydrogen peroxide, obtainable from the agricultural-cooperative store, to clean out the bladder and feed system after each use. Rinse thoroughly with clean water after cleaning with peroxide. Apparently, Milton's sterilising products/baby bottle cleaner might also work, but I suspect they might be more expensive.
...And 2 litres of water still has a mass of 2kg, whether it's in a CamelBak or in another water bottle. Perhaps the CamelBak might be slightly more comfortable, though, being able to fit in the hydration-pack sleeve against the back of most modern backpacks.
Personally, I just pack the 2.5l, plastic, hydrogen-peroxide container as a water reservoir in an ordinary backpack. A smaller, refillable squirt-bottle is a good addition for quick access. The hiker should decide for themselves.
9. What should I bring? ("The Ten Essentials")
My personal packing list is indicated in bold.
A. Water, beyond the expected minimum. Reservoir and squirt bottle. Yes, water is heavy, but, like shoes, don't skimp on it. Also, it gets sticky trying to wash hands with Energade, or fruit juice, or coffee.
Filtration... not really necessary down here in the Garden Route, Western Cape Province, South Africa. It might become important elsewhere, though. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of variously different filtration devices available for hikers out there. Your mileage may vary; use your own filters. ;)
Dehydration Symptoms: headache; thirst, dry mouth; excessive fatigue, muscle cramps; lightheadeness/dizziness, nausea/vomiting; confusion, irritability; decreased sweating, dry/clammy and cool skin, decreased skin turgor; dry eyes; less frequent urination, dark-coloured urine -- excessively rapid breathing and heartbeat/palpitations, weak pulse, low blood-pressure; sunken eyes; sleepiness, fainting.
Six level teaspoons of sugar and half a level teaspoon of salt dissolved in every litre of water is the Oral Rehydration Therapy "Simple Solution". Sugar can be replaced with honey. Freshly squeezed lemon juice added in, might also give a refreshing taste.
It is possible to drink small amounts of seawater at a time, but, once a hiker starts, they have to keep going until they can drink fresh water again, too flush their kidneys.
Normally, urine is also 95% water anyway, but the same applies as for seawater. However, everytime the urine gets recycled, it becomes more concentrated at least due to body water-loss through perspiration.
B. Food, beyond the expected minimum. Running out of fuel, can happen very suddenly and perhaps unexpectedly. One minute a hiker is still fine. The next, they're dizzy, their vision blurs, they have difficulty pushing up on their legs, and there's sort of a dull kind of knot in their stomach. That means it's empty. They should eat something.
Carbs give a quick boost. Protein has a slower burn. The cheapest solution -- in the long run -- might be to buy bulk dried fruit (carbs) and nuts (protein), and then pack only small packets to eat at intervals along the way.
My packets each contain an apple ring/wedge, half a pear, a mango slice, a date, an almond, a fig, and a walnut. I figure a packet like this every two hours, should keep a hiker going an entire day. I took up eight such packets to Cradock Peak, but only ate five the entire day.
Afterwards, I did some research and calculations, averaging kilojoule energy values for a single packet. Then I fed the applicable numbers into this kilojoule calculator for comparison. Even set at "extremely active", those five packets of dried fruit and nuts alone, gave me more energy than I required the entire day -- and I had a substantial breakfast that morning as well. ... So, I probably gained weight that day!
"Do not eat if you cannot drink." Digestion consumes fluids, which should at least be replenished during a meal.
C. Sun shields. Sunblock. As Baz Luhrmann says, "Everybody's Free (To Wear Sunscreen)". Zinc ointment to prevent facial sunburn on cheeks and lips. Lip-ice/balm/Vaseline/Zam-Buk/<your preference here>. Hat, which also shades face and neck, and with an adjustable chinstrap, should the wind come up. Sunglasses.
D. Protection. Fingerless gym-gloves. Personal-defense hiking stick/umbrella. Personal-defense mindset and skills.
E. Plastic bag to pick up rubbish on the go. It should be small and easy to carry when filled.
F. Clothes, beyond the expected minimum. Buff. Towel. Left/right anatomically-shaped, wool (not cotton) (synth-blend) silverised hiking socks. Your feet do most of the work out on a hike. Take good care of them.
G. Toiletries. White Gold/Bog Roll/T.P./Newspaper/Corn Husks. ...or 500ml water in a squirt bottle to rinse the teaspoon... Figure it out. ...And a plastic bag to take it back home with you. ...Or you could bury it. ...With a trowel. ...In a cat hole. Please be considerate, and do not leave human waste within a 100m radius of any natural water source, or where any other humans might stumble upon it.
The spoon does not provide as thorough a clean as you can get with T.P., but it should suffice in a pinch, and it does seem to be a little less abrasive, though. ... Too much information? Don't ever say that I don't put my dignity on the line for you! At least it wasn't a difficult trick to master, but you might want to practise at home first. Just don't drop the spoon while your rinsing it with the squirt bottle over the toilet bowl...
Perhaps a combination of first spoon and then paper might offer the best of both worlds. ... for many health and economical and other metaphysical reasons.
I got the idea after researching "toilet paper", and, of course, reading some Wikipedia.
Oh! ...And don't use the spoon as a food utensil again, unless you boil it for at least five minutes. You'd think it'd be obvious, right? ...But you also know how people can be, right? ... Right. ("'Aa's'ie pille vi' domgeit'ie, eksê.")
H. First aid. Personal meds. Insect repellent rub-on stick. Calamine lotion itch-ease. Anti-allergy antihistamine tablets - especially to ease breathing for snorers on multi-day hikes so that non-snorers can also get some sleep. Space blanket. Pain-killer tablets. Antifungal, antibacterial, antiviral, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, disinfectant ointments. Gentian Violet. Eye drops. Band-aid/Plasters. Bandages. Gauze pads. Tweezers. Needles. Thread. Scissors. Nail clippers. Foot care/blister treatment. Nitrile gloves.
I. Tools. Multi-tool/Knife. Rope/Paracord. Cable ties. Duct tape. Fire.
J. Locators. Personal identification and next-of-kin contact details. Charged phone, extra charged battery (bank(s) and appropriate cables) in waterproof cover. Map and compass. Whistle for signalling. 2 Old CDs for a (reverse) heliograph. Headlamp for signalling at night. (A rechargeable Petzl Tikka headlamp includes a visual, red-flash beacon and a whistle.) GPS with Map and Compass. (Garmin eTrex 22x handheld GPS should be sufficient.) Binoculars. [Personal Locator Beacon (PLB)/satellite messenger.]
Emergency Phone Numbers:
044 072 0045 - KOFS Greystorm Security
06 08 911 911 - KOFS Eden 911
10177 - General Rescue
082 911 - Netcare
084 124 / 082 372 5290 - ER24
082 990 5955 - Sea Rescue
0861 267 267 - Helicopter EMS
044 208 4478 / 4528 - Provincial Hospital
044 802 2500 - Ambulance
044 803 2000 - Geneva Mediclinic
(Offline) map (and compass), if you don't know the trail/area. Prepare to have no cell reception. Otherwise, go with a guide you trust, whom you know that they know what they're doing and where they're going.
Join the "Keep Our Forest Safe" ("KOFS") Telegram group:
https://t.me/joinchat/GmfkySeIGYtoj4y7
KOFS Website:
https://www.kofs.co.za
A heliograph does not operate very well when attempting to signal in a direction away from the sun. However, re-reflecting sunlight from one CD facing the sun onto a second CD facing away in the reverse direction, could give 360-degree signal directions. Look through the central hole of the CD, and use a thumb in stead of the proper heliopgraph sight to determine an accurate signal direction.
Barometric altimeters need to be calibrated against either a measured atmospheric pressure on a standarised barometer at a known altitude, or against a measured altitude at a known atmospheric pressure. (https://tinyurl.com/ya6eswvn) However, the barometric measurement, that determines the calibrated altimeter's reading, will in any case furthermore fluctuate during the day, and with changing weather, even at a single, stationary location.
Furthermore, GPS altimeters suffer from all kinds of errors which can cause their readings to range around 45m below to 45m above the true altitude. This is over and above the geoid-vs.-ellipsoid error of some unspecified devices, which translates to about another 30m uncertainty. (https://tinyurl.com/y7bhmzun)
However, it's not that a search-and-rescue team will not be able to find a hiker on the ground at their longlat coordinates if their altimeter reading is wrong. It's just that an altimeter reading is usually wrong, and, therefore, relatively useless, and a waste of money. Rather buy a simple, 2D, X-Y, longlat GPS, which is sufficiently accurate, than any kind of Z-axis altimeter. Besides, this topographic map and many other related internet-tools can be used to add consistently accurate altitude-data to simple, 2D, .gpx GPS-tracks should elevation profiles and the like be required. Unless the objective is rather flying than hiking, of course. Then an altimeter is a legal requirement.
K. Entertainment. Camera. Birding/mushroom/tree/flower/snake/insect apps/books. GoPro & accessories. ...et cetera.
Everything a hiker brings, they carry themselves.
10. How to Pack?
Heavier gear should be packed closer to the back, and closer to the centre of body mass. Heavier gear that is packed higher up or further out from the body, can increase strain on muscles and joints, and can cause a hiker to lose balance.
On the other hand, gear that is not likely to be used, should be packed deeper out of reach, so as not to obstruct access to other gear that will be required more frequently.
It's a fine, ergonomic balance, and it's different for each hiker personally - not just physically, but also with respect to access efficiency. Hikers don't appreciate packs that cause discomfort and/or frustration on a long, hard hike.
GENERAL
11. Procedure?
Fellow hikers should be informed of any medical conditions, such as epilepsy, and phobias. Whichever front runner takes the lead, must be in communication with the sweeper. Both their phone volumes must be turned up full, and their batteries sufficiently charged for the duration of the hike.
Fellow hikers should also be informed if a hiker does not want to be part of any photos/videos.
I, myself, refuse to pose for a photo, and would actually appreciate it greatly if I could be informed when I am in the frame, so that I may remove myself. I do not mind moving out of the way in the least, and will actually go to great lengths to duck out of a shot. Please do not hesitate to let me know.
If an identifiable shot of me is obtained, please do not post it publicly. If any kind of shot of me is obtained, please don't let me find out. Rather just delete it, please. The goal is actually not to try to get a shot of me - but the challenge is actually to try not to get a shot of me.
Let us, as considerate, kind and gentle hikers, respect each other's wishes and privacy, whether we understand, or not. Let us not assume that we may simply just take or steal that which is not offered or shared freely. Thanks.
12. Follow the Leader?
I guess I have a sheepdog kind of mentality when it comes to hiking in a bigger group (even though I'm actually a cat person). My favourite position in the team is that of sweeper, at the very back, bringing up the rear, and making sure that every last little lamb gets back in the fold. No-one must be lost. So, wherever there is only one path forward, and particularly on the Glentana hike and up to George and Cradock Peaks, in a bigger group, I mostly lead from the back.
I do not understand why so many people want to run ahead all the time. It doesn't really matter all that much whether a hiker gets there an hour earlier or an hour later (as long as they just don't get themselves into trouble, running out of daylight, or running into high-tide). Nature is still going to be there, already waiting for us, as always. I guess they're just so used to deadlines that they've forgotten that they too might once have enjoyed life. We can get the yuppie out of the office, but it's really very hard to get the office out of the yuppie again...
A hiker may walk until they don't know where to go anymore, and then wait. I'll catch up from behind, and point the way forward so that they can start running ahead again. However, the faster they run, the more of the interesting beauty they miss all around.
In the 2019 Hi-Tec Garden Route Walking Festival Nature's Valley to Keurbooms Beach hike video, the organiser, Galeo Saintz himself, also explains that he leads in this manner.
The reason is that no-one must be lost. Anyone who is not between the sweeper and the leader anymore, should communicate clearly with at least one of them, and ensure that their whereabouts are known.
I will personally go back for any hiker, and take their hand, and show them where to go, what to do, and how to do it, if they need me to. I will take their pack over the scary bits where they can't do it themselves. ... -- but I'm sure as sugar not gonna carry it all the way! Forget it! I've got my own pack to carry. Everyone carries their own weight.
I do have personal, first-hand experience of blind free-climbing, both guiding and being guided. If a hiker will trust me, we can blindfold them, and I will guide them, past the high bits in particular. I speak from experience when I say that, believe it or not, it is actually a lot easier if a hiker cannot see how high it is.
However, no-one will be forced to do anything that they don't want to do. ...but then they'll have to wait there, until we come back for them, or they could turn around and go back home. If the latter, they should rather take a friend with them. It's not a good idea to hike alone -- especially not these days anymore.
So, these are the options: a hiker can do it themselves, or let me assist them, blindfolded if need be, or they can wait, or go back with a friend.
If a hiker joins a hike on their own, they may gladly come walk with me at the back. We can share stories. Hiking is an experience best shared. They don't have to tell me who they are, where they come from, what they're doing, or where they're going, unless they want to, of course. However, I would like to hear about any other hikes that they've done, and what they've learned in doing them, if they don't mind, please. Thanks. Otherwise, I can tell them stories of my own previous hiking experiences on the current trail, and on others. ...or we could just simply enjoy the quiet as well.
13. "Don't Feed the Spotted Trolls"?
More often on the WhatsApp hiking groups, but sometimes on a hike as well, there is a type of person that exhibits certain negative behaviour. On WhatsApp, they can be identified by often posting off-topic fake-news and/or spam with the intent to provoke emotional responses. On a hike, they're most easily spotted as complainers and/or blamers.
On the internet, there's a running joke/meme that, when we bought our tickets to enter the web, there was a sign at the gate that said, "Don't Feed the Trolls." There is another well-known saying which might also be applied in this case: "Don't argue with a troll; they drag you down to their level, and then beat you with experience." They also always want the last word, of course. Please let them have it, for the sake of the rest of us. Let their first word also be their last.
Trolls feed off attention. Positive or negative, it doesn't matter to them: attention is attention. Some of them are deliberate. Other trolls don't realise that they actually are trolls. The two types of trolls are furthermore indistinguishable from each other because the deliberate trolls play the plausible deniability game, and both of them will deny it. However, deliberate or innocent, a troll is a troll.
Once spotted/identified, it becomes easier to deal with them. It is common courtesy to let others know, "Here be Spotted/Striped Trolls," or simply remind them, "Don't Feed the Trolls." It will be obvious who the troll is. Once the message has been given by anyone, it will, however, only be repeated by a(nother) troll.
Trolls do not necessarily have to be removed from groups. The hope is still that some of them might learn from the positive, educated, adult examples set by other group-members. However, two, independent, private requests to the group's admin for removal should be sufficient for the admin to warn the troll publicly that if they respond further in any manner, they will be removed from the group. This will also further consolidate for the other group-members what is acceptable behaviour, and what is not.
"You have been flagged as a troll. The only acceptable apology is consistently improved behaviour. If you apologise verbally to anyone, publicly or privately, you will be removed. At your next transgression, you will be removed. Behave, or be removed. ...or remove yourself, of course."
Hikers should ignore trolls as far as possible. Starve them of the attention that they crave, and they will either learn to behave properly, or go away of their own accord.
Hikers don't make fun of trolls or discuss them behind their backs in private messages where they cannot defend themselves. Hikers don't laugh or shout or hate or respond to them - it only worsens the problem.
Hate actually shows that we care about something. We care about the opposite of what we hate. There is a third possibility also, though. Indifference is not caring at all, one way or the other, whatsoever, anymore. It is not that we do not care about the topic under discussion. It is, however, the troll's behaviour in relation to the topic that doesn't mean anything to us anymore. ...and there's nothing they can do to make us care again. We're just so over it already. They give us no reason to give them any indication in return that we -- or they -- are still alive.
Sadly, it is the trolls themselves, once they have been identified, who give us no other effective alternative but to respond with the only thing worse than hate -- apathy.
Pity is not an appropriate response to a troll's suffering. Their suffering is fake, and merely yet another ploy for eliciting further emotional responses and attention. Trolls will lap up pity as they do hatred and any other attention, and they will give nothing in return but more provocation for the sake of draining their victims of emotional energy, and perpetuating the vicious cycle. Even consciously-deliberate trolls are still mindless in their parasitic, vampiric evil.
Don't Feed the Striped Trolls.
14. Definitions
Hike is what we do.
(Hike Groeneweide - general)
A verb rather than a noun.
A route is the way we do it.
(Groeneweide Red route)
Almost an adverb in stead of a noun.
The trail/path is where we do it.
(Groeneweide forest trail - specific)
A noun.
Garmin defines a GPS waypoint as a location along a trail. A GPS waypoint can correspond to a physical feature on a trail, such as a turn, split, junction, intersection, etc., or a landmark, such as a tree, rock, river, etc. A GPS waypoint can also merely be an electronic marker set on a GPS map which does not necessarily have to correspond to any specific physical feature or landmark.
Garmin defines a GPS route as a sequence of electronic waypoints. Routes are usually planned ahead of a hike, by setting waypoints on a GPS map, or downloading a preset route, for the purposes of following the route, and preventing getting lost.
When we tell another hiker how to do a hike, where to go, we do so by telling them about the physical waypoints for which to look out along the route. A GPS route can have many more electronic waypoints than merely the physical ones we use to give directions to other hikers, because a GPS route might also be used for accurate distance and altitude measurements between specific waypoints.
Garmin defines a GPS track as a route that was recorded as the hike progressed. A track is not a route that was preset beforehand. A track is the log of how the GPS device tracked its own movements, in terms of time, location and altitude, along a trail, by regularly recording electronic waypoints every so many metres or seconds, or according to another setting.
For the purposes of accurate measurement, it might be useful to record a waypoint every six seconds. Then also, every ten waypoints represent one minute of tracking. A fourteen-hour day-hike has 50 400 seconds, which would then result in 8 400 waypoints. The Garmin eTrex 22x can track up to 10 000 waypoints. At the end of the day, the track log can be transferred to a storage device, and the eTrex can be cleared and charged for the next day's tracking.
The only real difference between a GPS route and a GPS track is that a route does not contain the time data recorded on a track.
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